Naturism in Friuli Venezia Giulia
Typical of a region reluctant to publicly open its chest of many treasures, and with the friendly but reserved style of its inhabitants, iscovering the deep-rooted naturist tradition of this far edge of ltaly cannot but be a coincidence, more by allusion than by direct information.
And that is how it happened to me, many years ago, leafing through the book -Friuli Venezia Giulia, un piccolo universo- featuring the evocative photos of Elio Ciol. I came upon a photograph of a small beach that was unmistakably Giulian, filled with people who were unmistakably nude: this was the first c/ue of the existence of the Costa dei Barbari, about which I wil/ speak shortly.
Two factors have favored the development of local naturism here.
Firstly its position on the border and cross-theborder interchanges has enabled it to absorb and make nudist culture its own without tribulation. In fact nudism is taken for granted in Slovenia and Croatia and at the spas of Carinthia.
Secondly, the impracticable beauty of the Triestine karstic Formation, with its sheer calcareous rocks, makes the select use of its coves and rocky gorges irresistible for sunbathing and swimming in absolute freedom, sheltered from the eyes ofthose who prefer the convenience of driving on the coastal road to the exertion of walking down the trails which lead rapidly (very rapidly) to sea level.","It happened that towards the end of the 70s, Triestine naturists started peaceJully invading the local beaches.
Initially and predictably - they were disturbed by a few blitzes of the police Force. A few complaints were made, but these were readily protested by Liburnia, an association Jounded in 1968 with the drive of the rebirth spirit that was spreading in those years, gathering the legacy of the openness typical of the Mitteleuropean culture and the concepts of naturist philosophy that had been part of Trieste and the upper Adriatic for a long time.
Naturism in this area eventually became an acquired right and the police patrol boats limited their Junction to checking that bathers did not get too close to the coast and that they had valid IDs.
Today nudism on the Costa dei Barbari, Filtri and the Former Liburnia concession is a Jact of life; il is taken For granted. It does not make the news. Newspapers often use instrumental connotations, unfortunately, For incidents at other naturist locations in Italy.
Here naturists and textiles civilly coexist on several kilometers of open beach, without Jences, without discrimination of any kind.
The only thing disadvantage is perhaps the hurt interest in Liburnia activities which, with typical Italian ingratitude, is sometimes upstaged by the appeal of the splendid sun and sea here which are ''free of charge H. However, we should point out and underline the effort sustained by the association and by its
current directors (in particular the president, Andrea Turco, and the secretary, Leo Cimadori) who For 5 years have been working - sometimes a bit too silently perhaps - to maintain contacts with the institutions to ensure that a naturist tradition so rare and precious as the Giulian one remains throughout time and, what is more, that it spreads and prospers.
How do you get to this earthly paradise? l will now take you on a reconnaissance.
After the Trieste-Lisert exit on the A4 motorway (point A on the map), go another 7.3 km and exit at the TriesteSistiana interchange (B). Make sure you don't miss it because it is at the end of a rightward curve, so you cannot see it From a distance.
After another 400 meters, tum right in the direction Duino Sistiana. Drive another 800 meters and you will come to the C roundabout that will allow you to enter the coastal road. Follow the arrow For Trieste.
This is the first stop: after 800 meters you willfind a pay parking lot on the right (D), and one of the easier trails For reaching the Costa dei Barbari. At the bottom of the stairs, tum left and start to look around.
Right from the start you will find people who lo ve Jull-body tanning. You will cross an area strongly characterized by the presence of gays and finally end up in the company of Jamilies and children.
This long beach is the wildest and not operated by any Jederated association.
Consequently you will find a little bit of everything: behaviors that are arguable for some people and acceptable For others.
Now, from the parking lot proceed toward Trieste, stopping once in a while on the wide shoulders that allow you to admire the splendid panorama in all its magnificence (any apparently unjustified assembly of cars on the sides of the coast road is an indication that there is a trail leading down to the sea). After about 2 km you will go under a natural stone archway (E) and, after driving exactly 900 meters, on the right you will tum into Vìa Auguste Piccard (F). Park as soon as you get the chance because it is difficult to find a parking space, especially if you arrive late in the day or in the summer.
Walk down to the small beach; tum right beyond the dock; soon you will be able to get undressed. You have reached the small but tranquil area called Filtri, where you will be welcomed by the ageless Roberto Longhi.